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Browsing Category Travel

Taking Time To Be a Tourist

October 1, 2012 · by Nikki

When I tell people that I live in Paris, I often hear things like “I love Paris! It’s so beautiful,” “OMG, Paris is so pretty!” “I love _______ (insert Parisian area/neighborhood/district of choice)! It’s so charming!” “You must love the _______ (see previous instructions)! It was my favorite place when I visited there.”

At first, the short amount of time I had spent in the city allowed me to say things like “I haven’t been there yet, but I’ll definitely check it out,” to the satisfaction of those who had now given me, the resident of Paris, a recommendation on something new to see or do. And I took as many of those recommendations as I could in the early months. But recently it has dawned on me that the more people tell me how much they love certain little pieces of Paris, the harder it is for me to relate. Why? Simple: I have spent so much time and energy trying not to be a tourist, that I have flat-out avoided some of the parts of this city that make it so… Parisian.

So I’ve made a resolution to cut that out. I don’t care if I look like a tourist or not. The truth is, I live here, and if my American accent and constant stops to take pictures annoy the people around me… too bad. I’m here now, and I’m going to make the most of it. I would regret moving away from this place without having experienced the ins and outs of such a famously beautiful, culture-rich city.

To try and get better acquainted with the Paris that lies beyond the 12th arrondissement, I spent part of my Saturday last weekend taking my bicycle along the Seine and admiring beauty that was meant to be beheld. At some point I will compile all of the photos I’ve taken in and around Paris to add to my Cities: in Photos series (which still has yet to see Kos! Bad blogger!), but in the meantime, here’s a peek at what you can see in the city when you cycle through the streets. Enjoy!

: Giving you one in B&W for your photographic enjoyment

: Visiting the courtyard and gardens surrounding the Louvre never gets old…

: The Dark Knight is also a Perpetual Passenger

: Not hard to find things you want to photograph in this city

: Pausing for a portrait

: An angle of the Notre Dame not seen often enough

: No less stunning from the river

: Is that Tom Hanks?! Jk, jk. 🙂

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Rome

September 27, 2012 · by Nikki

To continue with my trend of posting atrociously late photos… here are my pictures of Rome from *cough* April *cough.*

: Through the Rabbit Hole… can you see the dome on the other side?

: Aquaduct remains

: St Peters Dome

: Roman Glow – the capital building, I think?

: Roman Horse Statue

: Bath House Ruins

: Through the Duct

: Colosseum

: City Wall

: Hard to get home sick when you get to go scooting through Rome

: Roman Rooftops at Sunset

: Bath House Ruins 2

: Colosseum View

: Tunnel of Trees

: Sinking Ship Fountain near the Spanish Steps

: Tomb of Unknown Soldier at Sunset

: Roman Statue

: A close-up of the wall of an aquaduct

: Scooter Action Shot

: Scooters, scooters, everywhere!

: Spanish Steps

: Old Roman Road

: Beautiful architecture at every turn

: No Title Required

: Walking Down the Oldest Road in Rome

: Scooting in the Italian countryside

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Paris Cupcake Wars: Daisy Miller American Bakery & Restaurant

September 17, 2012 · by Nikki

I bet you thought I had taken a break from my mission to discover cupcakes in Paris, hmm? Well you’re wrong–I haven’t!

Frog Prince’s big sis clued me in to a potentially dangerous thing: a cupcake shop in my neighborhood. This sounded like trouble, and I needed to investigate. Enter: Daisy Miller American Bakery & Restaurant.

At First Glance: Technically the first glance I had of this place was the website, and I liked what I saw. They have some really great photos of some delicious-looking cupcakes, and I felt both excited and worried about the prospect of having such yummy desserts nearby.

See how yummy these look?

At Second Glance: The shop seemed pretty bare, which I tried to overlook considering that they are newly installed into their little corner of the 12th arrondissement. But as soon as I took a look at their cupcake shelf, my heart dropped and I knew that my initial reaction of disdain for the wannabe-American bakery was an accurate one. We actually called before coming, since it was August and so many shops close for summer holiday, and we wanted to make sure they were open. They told us that they were, in fact, open for business, but asked us to delay our visit by just a bit so they could put out more fresh cupcakes. We obliged, but when we got there, I’d say their selection was extremely limited, and looking far from fresh.

At first bite: I didn’t need to take a bite, actually, to know that these cupcakes wouldn’t measure up to the previous two shops I’ve visited. Each cake looked exactly the same (no differentiation in flavor), and the frosting looked like whipped cream mixed with flavoring and/or food coloring, topped with cheap candy. Nevertheless, the first bite confirmed–these were not what an American would consider a cupcake.

Overall: I can honestly say that we felt bad serving these cupcakes to our dinner guests that night. Fortunately they were up for the experiment, and didn’t hold it against us, but this isn’t a bakery that I plan to return to anytime soon. Obviously, my verdict for this one is DON’T GO to Dasiy Miller.

As a side note, I was particularly put-off by two other things: First–the name indicates that this bakery is aiming to resemble something American, either in look, feel, or food offering. Not only were the cupcakes not at all up to American cupcake standards, but the decor in the shop centered around imagery from… London. Second–the one American thing they did have on their menu that looked appealing was beer. I was especially excited to see Sam Adams Boston Lager on the menu (for obvious reasons), and we tried to order one… at which point we were notified that, uh, they were out (or do they even carry them??). But we could have Heineken! No thanks, Daisy Miller. And maybe you should revisit the American theme you have going on…

Image credit: http://www.daisymiller-cupcakes.com/

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Things I Learned: in Kos

September 14, 2012 · by Nikki

A good indication you’re in a Greek seafood taverna

When in doubt, hop on a plane to a Greek Island. You won’t be disappointed.
Bee stings do hurt.
I am not allergic to bees.
Beach + sun beds + the ability to order food and drinks while sea side = paradise
I already knew that I needed meds to be on a boat, but now I know how to recognize puking passengers and distribute meds accordingly.
A sunburn-free holiday is the best holiday.
A 3-island boat cruise on the Arch Angel Michael departing from the port in Kos Town is not a bad way to spend a day.
Taking the Katerina for the above-mentioned boat tour probably would have been better, though.
When in Kos, Shrimp or Prawn Saganaki is a must.
Making friends with the guy in the Red Sox shirt may result in two free shots of Jager.
Local live music is never a bad idea.
Driving a four-wheeler is fun!! (I could very well be late to the game on this one)
The Oromedon Restaurant in Zia is great for sunsets, not so great for vegetarians.
I suck at pool (wait… maybe I already knew that).
The island of Kos is a holiday hotspot for Brits.
That means tons of bars have big screen TVs and are otherwise equipped for football (soccer) games.
If you’re hungry on Kos, look for a Taverna.
If you don’t find a Taverna, be prepared for less-than-mediocre meals from kitchens that offer everything from nachos to indian food… on the same menu.
Donkeys really do make hee-haw noises. At all hours of the day or night.
I like to wear the color yellow.

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Some things to tide you over

September 5, 2012 · by Nikki

Paradise? Kos? What’s the difference?

I have just arrived from a fantastic holiday on the island of Kos in Greece! I am busy adjusting to being back in the real world, and until I have time to actually write some decent posts, here are links to a few things that should provide good reading material in the meantime.

The amazing Mama over at HJ Underway wrote a post echoing my thoughts about speaking a language other than the local one, and the American language debate. Check it out, here.

My latest article for MyFrenchLife, talking about tennis in Paris, was published while I was away. You can read it, here.

Benny the super Irish Polyglot found my blog post about my addiction to excuses, and he posted it on his site, with some of his commentary (and EXCELLENT feedback in the comments for those of you looking to learn another language). Check out his site, here, and the blog where my addiction post makes an appearance, here.

Until next time! 😉

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August 21, 2012 · by Nikki

A post that has inspired me like few others…

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France v USA: Competition of Olympic Proportions

August 2, 2012 · by Nikki

Competitive? Yes I am.

And I’m not afraid to admit that I’m generally a sore loser. Yeah, that’s right, I said it: I don’t like to lose. So what?

Now that the Olympics are on, I get to be vicariously competitive by watching sports that are rarely highlighted on (inter)national television. It’s great. And I get to watch everything right from the heart of the United States’ biggest rivals.

No, I’m not in China! Oh wait, they’re our biggest Olympic rivals? Well, not when you’re an American living in France. In my world, it’s “China Schmina.” Yes, I want us to win the medal race and watch my compatriots rise to Olympic glory, but what I really enjoy is when we beat the French.

Unfair advantage rooting for the US, you say? Try telling that to the US men’s 4X100 relay swim team, who were leading the race until two things happened: the amazing Yannick Agnel got into the pool for the final leg of the relay, and my dear friend Courtney (who, despite the following blunder, is cool, so check out her blog) said the dreaded words “there’s no way France is going to beat us now,” after which we were swiftly ousted from the gold medal position. Thank you both. 🙂

Okay, silver’s not all that bad. And they look pretty happy. But still! (Rob Schumacher-USA TODAY Sports)

My only consolation was that earlier in the day, the US men’s basketball team trampled France to win by a nearly 30-point margin.

Sorry TP
(image by Bob Donnan, USA TODAY Sports)

Maybe I’m just being a brat (it wouldn’t be at all out of character for me), but YOU try sitting in a room full of French people who cheer heartily against your homeland. You’d forget about China, too.

And no, this isn’t just nationalistic ignorance where I spew that the United States is the best country in the world, or some other silly nonsense. But just like the New England Patriots are my team, when it comes to the Olympics, the US is my team.

Okay and maaaaybe I admit that when the US isn’t competing, I might support France. Allez! 🙂

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A Trifecta of French Frustrations

August 1, 2012 · by Nikki

They say things happen in threes. I hope that’s true, because if I experience another run-in with the Parisian rudeness that I have been actively assuring others doesn’t exist, I might just lose my mind.

After gaining the confidence to try to speak some French in public, I have been surely and swiftly knocked off of my little pedestal. For a city that is known for its culture and class, the people here certainly can lack tact. Here’s a recap of my descent from moderately confident to fearing foreigner:

At my neighborhood grocery store, an old lady asked me where she could find a “boite de sel,” or, a box of salt. Not knowing the answer (or what exactly a BOX of salt was), I told her, in French, that I would ask someone. She understood me and thanked me for offering to help. I found the nearest grocery store employee, to whom I said: “Je cherche une boite de sel…?” knowing that I was looking for something rather odd. His response: “Vous n’êtes pas français, hmm?” (or, “you’re not French…”). He then laughs, and follows me to the aisle where the old lady is searching. Um… did I make a mistake here? Am I speaking so unintelligibly that you cannot understand me? Obviously not. So stop focusing on the fact that I’m not French and tell me where we can find a freaking box of salt, damn it!
At a restaurant ordering lunch last weekend, a waiter makes a joke about what I’m ordering in French. I smile politely and nod, not even realizing he was making a joke, which prompts him to ask Frog Prince why I didn’t get the joke. He of course responded that I don’t really speak French. At the end of the meal, the waiter looks me in the eye and asks me in French if my plate was good. I responded “C’était bon!” Meaning, it was good. At which point he proceeded to sarcastically ask me if it was “bon ou bonne?” in an attempt to correct my French, and he was in fact, making a mistake (insert French grammar lesson about masculine and feminine forms, here). Nice try, buddy. I didn’t realize French teachers also worked as waiters on Sundays.
On the same day as incident number 2, we were at the lake enjoying the rare Paris sunshine. Somehow we started playing football (soccer) with a little boy nearby. The great thing about little kids is that I can speak to them in French, probably making plenty of mistakes, but they totally understand me and don’t judge me at all. However, a group of pretentious mommies who arrived after our game of football had started, who sat themselves directly adjacent to our playful little match, proceeded to tell us we were playing too close to their children, and DO like to judge. Apparently they heard me speaking to the little boy and felt that my French was sub-par and felt it necessary to talk among themselves about my poor language skills. After being informed of their comments to each other, overheard by Frog Prince, that I should learn how to properly speak French, we decided to ignore their warnings and played until they left. Hopefully, they went to find something better to do, like pay attention to that baby they were so damned worried about that they strategically placed him near an ongoing football game.

A photo from our day at the lake – which would have been exceptional if not for some mean mommies 😦

To be completely honest, after getting home from the lake and having all three incidents hit me at once… I cried. For the first time since moving to Paris, I cried solely because I felt so completely frustrated with living here. On the bright side, it took me almost a year and a half to reach this point.

But have no fear, friends, family, and faithful readers… after my pity party passed, I have made a resolution: I’m gonna learn the SHIT out of this language, if for no other reason than to go back to that waiter and tell him what I think of his français de merde. After my meal is finished, of course.

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Paris Cupcake Wars: Berko’s Bakery

July 27, 2012 · by Nikki

For the latest installment of my cleverly devised scheme to allow me to binge on cupcakes while in Paris, I bring you the full report of my experience with Berko’s Bakery.

The setting: We had plans to host some of of the Prince’s Royal Family for dinner, and we thought it would be a great idea to introduce some other Froggies to cupcakes and to get their valuable feedback. So on the day of our dinner I ventured over to the Berko’s location in the 18th arrondissement, just a short walk from the Moulin Rouge, to sample their wares.

At first glance: Both the website and the storefront were promising. The website lists a huge variety of both cupcakes and frostings, sorted by type (buttercream, cream cheese, mascarpone, mousse and ganache), which sufficiently wet my appetite. Once inside, their selection of cupcakes vastly outnumbered that at Scarlett’s Bakery, and I was eager to make my selection. The shop was very nicely decorated, evoking a feeling of vintage-esque Parisian sweetness. They also offer wedding cakes (among other things), which is typically a good indicator of a bakery that knows how to make a cupcake!

Berko’s storefront – in French 😉

At second glance: Although the selection was large, I was double-disappointed with it! Not only were they not carrying the classic flavors I seem to be always hunting for, but the selection of buttercream cupcakes was so much smaller than any other type, and buttercream is my favorite. The cupcakes here are also minis, and the box they offer is designed well and holds your goodies in place like a trusty sports bra.

Keepin’ everything nice and snug

At first bite: The disappointment continued. The frosting was moderately tasty, but the cupcakes themselves were average. At Scarlett’s, you get cupcakes that are either the same or a corresponding flavor as the frosting, giving you a really flavorful experience for each bite. With Berko’s, you’re typically getting a plain cake with fancy frosting (if you can call it that). In some cases, the cupcakes had some sort of filling inside that, while yummy, doesn’t exactly make up for the lack of attention paid to the cake itself. Our guests reflected my sentiments by saying that the cakes were a bit dry and plain, and Frog Prince has asked me not to go back.

So much promise, so little flavor

Overall: Their prices are higher than Scarlett’s for a lower quality product. The best thing about Berko’s is the box, and that’s obviously not enough to make it worth your time or money. My recommendation is to save yourself the hassle, and DON’T GO to Berko’s.

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Exploring Paris: One Cupcake at a Time

July 17, 2012 · by Nikki

The French do many things well, not the least of which are their desserts. And one of the things that makes their desserts so universally well-liked is the uncanny ability to find the perfect balance of sweetness. Rarely is a French pastry ever too sweet, or not sweet enough.

Delicious, no doubt. Copyright: wikipedia

But if you have a sweet tooth anything like mine, you may often find your cravings go unsatisfied in the realm of the perfect pastry. Although I can certainly appreciate and enjoy the macarons, tarts, gâteaux and other delights to be found in France, sometimes I feel the urge to dive head-first into a sea of sugar. And in those moments, cupcakes can often be just what the doctor ordered.

Cupcakes have enjoyed a State-side spotlight in the past few years, with several reality TV series focusing on cake creation and boosting the popularity of cakes and cupcakes alike. While living in Boston, I took the time to explore several cupcake shops, and was often impressed with the creative flavor combinations I was able to find. Not only are cupcakes just a little sweeter than typical French pastries, but the effort put into the carefully crafted frostings, which are often flavorful experiences all by themselves, is apparent.

To put France’s reputation for pastry-making to the test, I decided that I would not simply settle for trying out the things we already know the French are good at, but instead set out to discover what the world of cupcakes looks like when it is created with a Parisian perspective. Although I’m no expert, I do know a good cupcake when I have one (for example, in London, you simply must stop in at Sweet Couture–best cupcakes I’ve ever had! So far…), and I plan to see if cupcakes made in Paris can compete with those from the rest of the world.

The most amazing red velvet cupcake I’ve ever consumed… and there have been many

My first venture into cupcake escapades was Scarlett’s Bakery. I’ll post a review with thoughts and pictures shortly. Bon appétit!!

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